Crosetatul si tricotatul sunt indeltniciri foarte vechi.
Modelele sunt concepute sau preluate de la batranii nostri si se adreseaza tuturor persoanelor cu experienta in arta crosetatului si tricotatului dar mai ales incepatorilor.
"DE LA LUME ADUNATE SI-NAPOI LA LUME DATE" myassy1980@yahoo.com
HANNE FALKENBERG și-a început propria colecție la începutul anilor '90.
Modelele ei sunt caracterizate de tehnici de tricotat sofisticate și bine gândite, cu detalii eficiente, ușor de urmărit, chiar și pentru începători.
Tehnicile aparte abordate de Hanne Falkenberg dau sentimentul că ați creat ceva foarte special.
Jacheta este tricotată din două părți. O parte cuprinde jumătate din față și jumatate din spate cu mânecă.
Cele două părți sunt cusute împreună la mijlocul spatelui.
This raglan sweater for babies is knit from the top down and is entirely seamless
Size Fits babies about 2 years.
Gauge 24 sts and 36 rows = 4" with larger needles over pattern stitch
Materials 1 ball sportweight yarn such as Bernat Softee Baby Size 3.25 mm straight needles (circular needles),(double points) 2 stitch holders stitch markers tapestry needle
Instructions
Work Back and forth:
Pattern:
Row 1 (Right side): p1 * knit 1, purl 2; repeat from * to end. Row 2: Knit 1, * slip 1 with yarn in front, knit 2; repeat from * to end. Abbreviations:
K2tog= knit 2 stitches together; ridges=2 rows , k all stitches,
Cast on 84 sts. Beginning at collar, with straight needles CO 88 sts. Rows 1 : *k1, p1*; rep from * to end. Rows 2 : *p1, k1; rep from * to end.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 more times,
Next Row (RS): Rep Row 1, working a buttonhole in band at beginning of row for boys (k2, yo, k2tog, k1) or at end for girls (k1, k2tog, yo, k2). Work buttonholes every 12th ridge or 24 rows.
Next row (WS): Beginning Pattern and placing markers as follows: Work 14 sts for front, pm,1 st, pm, work 14 sts for sleeve, pm, 1 st, pm, work 28 sts for back, pm, 1 st, pm, work 14 sts for sleeve, pm, 1 st, pm, work last 14 sts for front. Change to circular needles, working back and forth as if with straights. Begin yoke and raglan increases. Increase by knitting into the front and back of same stitch. On the back of the work, we were working row 2 in the pattern without making increases between markers. Next row (RS):Front, sl1, p1 * knit 1, purl 2*; repeat from * to marker, inc 1 st, marker, K 1, slip marker, inc 1 st; Sleeve: rep from * to marker, inc 1 st, marker, K 1, slip marker, inc 1 st, Back : rep from * to marker, inc 1 st, marker, K 1, slip marker, inc 1 st;Sleeve: rep from * to marker, inc 1 st, marker, K 1, slip marker, inc 1 st;Front , rep from * to end. (96 sts).
Rep last four rows for pattern stitch until you have 54 sts for each sleeve (20 ridges ), ending with WS completed-592 sts total.
Join body and put sleeves on holder. (RS): *Work to within 2 sts of marker, inc in next st, K1, remove marker. Put 54 sts of sleeve on holder without working. CO 4 sts at underarm. Remove next marker, inc in next st; rep from * once and complete row - 136 sts
Work even, continuing in pattern stitch and repeating buttonholes at the proper interval. End with 3rd row of pattern stitch, 8 ridges below the 4th buttonhole.
Bottom Band Change to smaller straight needles. WS: K5, *p2, k2; rep from 8 to last 5 sts, k5 Continue in ribbing and working buttonbands as for collar, knitting 5th buttonhole at proper interval. Work 4 rows after buttonhole, then BO loosely in pattern.
Sleeves With larger double points, k 42 sts from holder and pick up 6 sts from underarm (the 4 CO sts, plus an extra st at each end of CO sts). Divide 15 sts on needle 1, 18 sts on needle 2, 15 sts on needle 3 - 48 sts Begin at underarm, dec and join: Rnd 1: K5, k2tog, k to the last st, K it together with the 1st stitch from the beginning of next round - 46 sts Rnd 2: K Rnd 3: K Rnd 4: P Rnd 5: K4, k2tog, k to the last st, K it together with the 1st stitch from the beginning of next round - 44 sts Rnd 6: K Rnd 7: K Rnd 8: P Rnd 9: K3, k2tog, k to the last st, K it together with the 1st stitch from the beginning of next round - 42 sts
Work even over 42 sts as established in pattern stitch until sleeve measures 4" or desired length. End with p rnd completed. *K2tog, k5; rep from * around - 36 sts Change to smaller double points and work in k2, p2 ribbing for one inch. BO loosely. Rep for second sleeve. Sew on buttons. Weave in ends on WS.
Pf – YO, Insert hook into designated stitch, YO and pull up a loop. Insert hook into same stitch, YO and pull up a loop. Insert hook into same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (7 loops on hook). YO and pull through all 7 loops. Chain 1.
Teen/Adult Small:
Round 1: Ch 3 and join to form a ring. Make 6 Pf stitches in center of ring. Join with the top two loops of the first puff stitch with a slst.
Round 2: Make 2 pf stitches in between each stitch in the chain 1 gap spaces. Join with a slst to the first puff stitch. (12 sts)
Round 3: Make 1 pf stitch in the first ch 1 gap space, make 2 pfs in the next space. *Make 1 pf stitch in the next ch 1 gap space, make 2 pfs in the next space. Repeat from * and join with a slst. (18 sts)
Round 4: Make 1 pf stitch in the first 2 ch 1 gap spaces, make 2 pfs in the next space. *Make 1 pf stitch in the next 2 ch 1 gap spaces, make 2 pfs in the next space. Repeat from * and join with a slst. (24 sts)
Round 5: Make 1 pf stitch in the first 3 ch 1 gap spaces, make 2 pfs in the next space. *Make 1 pf stitch in the next 3 ch 1 gap spaces, make 2 pfs in the next space. Repeat from * and join with a slst. (30 sts)
Rounds 6-14: Make 1 pf stitch into each ch 1 gap space. Join with a slst to complete each round. (30 sts)
Round 15: Ch 1. Sc into first pf stitch (place stitch marker), sc into ch 1 gap space. *Sc into the next stitch, sc into the next ch 1 gap space. Repeat from *. Do not join, continue working in spiral. (60 sts)
Rounds 16-18: Sc into every stitch. Once you have reached the stitch marker on the 18th round, slst into the next 2 stitches to finish up the round.
Bind off and weave in your ends.
Adult Large
Round 1: Ch 3 and join to form a ring. Make 6 Pf stitches in center of ring. Join with the top two loops of the first puff stitch with a slst.
Round 2: Make 2 pf stitches in between each stitch in the chain 1 gap spaces. (12 sts)
Round 3: Make 1 pf stitch in the first ch 1 gap space, make 2 pfs in the next space. *Make 1 pf stitch in the next ch 1 gap space, make 2 pfs in the next space. Repeat from * and join with a slst. (18 sts)
Round 4: Make 1 pf stitch in the first 2 ch 1 gap spaces, make 2 pfs in the next space. *Make 1 pf stitch in the next 2 ch 1 gap spaces, make 2 pfs in the next space. Repeat from * and join with a slst. (24 sts)
Round 5: Make 1 pf stitch in the first 3 ch 1 gap spaces, make 2 pfs in the next space. *Make 1 pf stitch in the next 3 ch 1 gap spaces, make 2 pfs in the next space. Repeat from * and join with a slst. (30 sts)
Round 6: Make 1 pf stitch in the first 4 ch 1 gap spaces, make 2 pfs in the next space. *Make 1 pf stitch in the next 4 ch 1 gap spaces, make 2 pfs in the next space. Repeat from * and join with a slst. (36 sts)
Rounds 7-15: Make 1 pf stitch into each ch 1 gap space. Join with a slst to complete each round. (36 sts)
Round 16: Ch 1. Sc into first pf stitch (place stitch marker), sc into ch 1 gap space. *Sc into the next stitch, sc into the next ch 1 gap space. Repeat from *. Do not join, continue working in spiral. (72 sts)
Rounds 17-19: Sc into every stitch. Once you have reached the stitch marker on the 18th round, slst into the next 2 stitches to finish up the round.
Gauge: 6 stitches and 8 rows = 1” in stockinette Requirements:
- Circular or straight needles, size 3.75 mm Double-pointed needles, size 3.75 mm (optional) ;
- Sport weight yarn : MC (300-450 yards), secondary colors A (less than 100 yards), B, and C (less than 50 yards each) ;
MC= light brown
A= blue
B=navy blue
C= red
- Two stitch holders.;
- zipper;
- Tapestry needle;
Abbreviations used in this pattern:
m1 (make one stitch (one increase)): my favorite way to make a stitch is to lift up and knit the right leg of the stitch one row below the stitch on the left needle. Another option is to pick up the bar between stitches and knit it through the back loop.
K = knit
P = purl
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
PM = place marker
SSK = slip two stitches knitwise, then knit these two stitches together through the back loops
K2tog = knit two stitches together
Directions:
Yoke
With MC, cast on 85 stitches.
Work 7 rows of k1, p1 ribbing.
Work one row purl. Switch to A and work two rows stockinette. In next row, increase 20 stitches evenly across row as follows: k 4, *m1, k 4, rep. from * 18 times, m1, k 5. ( 105 st.)
Work 1 more row stockinette. In next row, increase 28 stitches evenly across row as follows: k 12, *m1, k3, rep. from * 26 times, m1, k 12. ( 133) st.
Body
In next RS row, divide for sleeves as follows:
knit to first marker, place stitches between first and second markers on a holder or piece of scrap yarn, knit to third marker, place stitches between third and fourth markers on a holder or piece of scrap yarn, knit to end.
You can drop the markers in this row.
Continue body in stockinette until it measures 11 inches from cast-on.
Then work 12 rows of k1, p1 rib and bind off.
Sleeves
Place one sleeve’s stitches back on needles and rejoin MC yarn.
Work back-and-forth or in the round.
If you work back-and-forth, cast on one selvedge stitch at each side to use for seaming up later.
Work 12 rows stockinette.
In next row/round (RS), k1, ssk, work to 3 stitches before end, k2tog, k1.
Work 11 more rows/rounds.
Repeat these 12 rows/rounds 3 more times.
Work 8 more rows/rounds stockinette.
Sleeve should be 7 inches from armpit.
If it is not, continue in stockinette until it is.
In next row/round, *k4, k2tog, repeat from * to end.
Ochi de lant : "Firul de lucru se infasoara pe degetul aratator de la mana stanga. La capatul firului se face o bucla ale carei extremitati se tin intre degetul mare si cel mijlociu de la mana stanga. Firul care vine de pe deget la bucla trebuie sa fie deasupra iar capatul lui dedesubt. Croseta se tine in mana dreapta. Se introduce croseta prin fata buclei, se ia firul pe croseta (1 jeteu) si se trece prin bucla, fixand astfel primul ochi de lant. * Se ia din nou firul pe croseta (jeteu) si se trece prin primul ochi, formandu-se astfel al doilea ochi de lant * Se repeta de la * la * pana la obtinerea numarului de ochiuri de lant necesar modelului ce urmeaza a se executa, acestea formand randul, (lantul ) de baza". (Conform "303 Modele de crosetat si tricotat" de Doina Silvia Marian),
Este simbolizat de un mic oval.
Symbol
U.S.
chain (ch)
U.K.
chain
Français
maille en l´air
Español
cadeneta (cad)
Deutsch
Luftmasche (Lftn)
Italiano
punto catenella
Piciorusul orb sau ochi alunecat: se introduce croseta in locul unde prevede modelul, se ia firul pe croseta si se trage prin ambele ochiuri.
Este simbolizat de un punct sau jumatate de cerculet.
Symbol
U.S.
slip stitch (sl st)
U.K.
slip stitch (sl st)
Français
maille coulee
Español
punto enano (pe)
Deutsch
Kettmasche
Italiano
maglia bassissima
Piciorus mic - se introduce croseta intr-un ochi al lantului de baza sau in punctul dorit, se ia firul si se scoate o bucla , dupa care, se ia un jeteu si se trece firul prin cele 2 bucle aflate pe croseta .
Este simbolizat de un x.
Symbol
U.S.
single crochet (sc)
U.K.
double crochet (dc)
Français
maille serree
Español
punto bajo (pb)
Deutsch
Feste Masche (fM)
Italiano
maglia bassa (m. bassa)
Piciorus mare redus – se lucreaza dand firul o singura data dupa croseta , introducem croseta intr-un ochi al lantului de baza sau in punctul dorit, se ia firul si se scoate o bucla , dupa care, se ia un jeteu si se trece firul prin cele 3 bucle aflate pe croseta .
Este simbolizat de un T mare.
Symbol
U.S.
half double crochet (hdc)
U.K.
half treble (htr)
Français
demi-bride (demi-br)
Español
punto alto (pa)
Deutsch
Halbe Stäbchen (h.Stb)
Italiano
mexxa maglia alta
Piciorus mare dublu – se lucreaza dand firul o singura data dupa croseta, introducem croseta intr-un ochi al lantului de baza sau in punctul dorit, se ia firul si se scoate o bucla , dupa care, se ia un jeteu si se trece firul prin primele 2 bucle, luam 1 jeteu si trecem firul prin urmatoarele 2 bucle.
Este simbolizat de un T mare taiat odata.
Symbol
U.S.
double crochet (dc)
U.K.
treble (tr)
Français
bride (br)
Español
punto alto doble (pad)
Deutsch
Stäbchen (Stb)
Italiano
maglia alta (m. alta)
Piciorus mare triplu – se lucreaza dand firul de doua ori dupa croseta, apoi, se introduce croseta in ochiul in care se va realiza piciorusul triplu, se ia firul si se trage o bucla, se ia din nou firul care se trage apoi prin cele 2 bucle de pe croseta, se ia din nou firul care se trage prin urmatoarele 2 bucle de pe croseta si se mai ia din nou firul care se trage prin ultimele 2 bucle de pe croseta.
Se simbolizeaza cu un T mare taiat de doua ori.
Symbol
U.S.
treble crochet (tr)
U.K.
double treble (dtr)
Français
doulble bride (d-br)
Español
punto alto triple (pat)
Deutsch
Doppel-Stäbchen (D.Stb)
Italiano
maglia ltissima
Piciorus mare quadruplu - se lucreaza dand firul de trei ori dupa croseta, se introduce croseta in ochiul in care se va realiza piciorusul quadruplu, se ia firul si se trage o bucla, se ia din nou firul care se trage apoi prin cele 2 bucle de pe croseta, se ia din nou firul care se trage prin urmatoarele 2 bucle de pe croseta, se ia din nou firul care se trage prin urmatoarele 2 bucle de pe croseta si se mai ia din nou firul care se trage prin ultimele 2 bucle de pe croseta.
Se simbolizeaza cu un T mare taiat de trei ori.
Picot
Symbol
U.S.
picot
U.K.
picot
Français
picot (pi)
Español
piquito
Deutsch
Pilot (Pi)
Italiano
Pippiolino
Cluster
Symbol
U.S.
cluster (cl)
U.K.
cluster (CL)
Français
grappe
Español
puntos altos cerrados
en el mismo punto
Deutsch
Büschelmasche
Italiano
maglia raggruppata
How to crochet a Magic circle
Abrevieri din limba engleza
BP = Back Post
ch = chain
See this abbreviation used in an example.
chs = chains
cl = cluster
dc = double crochet
dec = decrease
dtr = double treble crochet
FO = finished object
FP = front post
g = gram
half dc = half double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
inc = increase
incl = include / including / inclusive
m = meter; also mesh
p = picot
pat = pattern
PM = place marker / place a marker
pc = popcorn
rep = repeat
rnd = round
rnds = rounds
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
sps = spaces
st = stitch
sts = stitches
tog = together
tr = treble crochet / triple crochet
tr tr = triple treble crochet
UFO = unfinished object
YO = yarn over
* = The pattern will specify how many times to repeat a series of instructions following an asterisk, or between asterisks.
( ) = The pattern will specify how may times to repeat a series of instructions that are given inside the parentheses.
[ ] = The pattern will specify how many times to repeat a series of instructions that are given inside the brackets.
“ = inches
